Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Walking Through Old DeIhi



Enjoyed the movie Delhi6.The story is shown against the backdrop of the ancient city of Delhi (which is totally different from New Delhi). The city is almost a character in itself, representing the chaos of India, the people, their religions and their beliefs.
It reminded me of my recent visit to Delhi. I really enjoyed the visit especially to Old Delhi. If you fly into Delhi, you will inevitably end up in New Delhi. This section of the city is very modern with wide and organized roads. And you will not find the ancient Indian charm. But if you want to know and explore real India then you need to visit Old Delhi. Old Delhi is where the action is. Still surrounded by crumbling city walls and three surviving gates, the vibrant, bustling Shahjahanabad, built over a period of 10 years by Emperor Shah Jahan , is very much a separate city. The streets are a chaotic mass of markets with hundreds of people moving around. Old Delhi is inhabited by a predominantly Muslim population whose lives revolve around work and the local mosque, much as it was a century ago.
The best way to see Old Delhi is to catch an auto rickshaw to the Red Fort and then just start wandering around the bazaars and old markets. Or take the metro or taxi to Chandni Chowk. I took the metro. The metro is by far the fastest way to get anywhere in Delhi if you and your destination are near a stop. If you end up taking the metro get off at Chandni Chowk Metro Station. From there take a rickshaw to Red Fort. I found it surprising that they charge per person, Rs10 till Red Fort. So we paid Rs20(for myself n my husband).The Chandni Chowk is one of the busiest market in Delhi. It dates back to 1638. Walking through the narrow lanes you find gold and silver smiths,tailors, spicy street food vendors, sweet shops, gift shops....... just name it.
The Red Fort also know as Lal Qila was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2007. It is a popular tourist site, as well as a powerful symbol of India's sovereignty. The Prime Minister of India raises the national flag of India on the rampant of the Lahori Gate of the fort complex every year on Independence Day(August 15).
Just opposite the fort is the Digambar Jain Temple, the oldest shrine of the Jain religion in Delhi. Initially built in 1526, much alteration and renovation have been made to the original structure. Erected in red sandstone, Digambar Jain Temple is commonly known as Lal Mandir. Located next to the Digambar Jain Temple, is 800 year old Gauri Shankar Temple. Even before you reach the temple you can smell it, literally, owing to the several flower shops in the vicinity selling flowers to offer to the deity. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and houses an approximately 800-year old brown lingam, made up of phallus stone. The Lingam is encircled by snakes and represents a "cosmic pillar, the center of universe, the life itself". There are bejeweled statues of Gauri (Goddess Parvati) and Shankar (Lord Shiva), standing beneath the silver canopy, inside the main shrine. Along with these idols, are the idols of their sons, Ganesh (the elephant headed god) and Kartik, (the god of war).Then you can stop at Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib. A Sikh pilgrimage, was built on the land where the Mughals in 1675 AD martyred the Sikh Guru,Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur. In Sis Ganj Gurudwara you can witness the trunk of the big tree below which the Guru was martyred. You will be expected to hand over your shoes, wash your hands and feet, and if you are a lady, cover your head with a scarf before entering the gurudwara. A further ahead is parathewali gali, probably the most famous street in old Delhi, known for its stuffed parathas. A little ahead is the Town hall, built by the British and now the office of the MCD. On the street just behind the Gurdwara Sisganj and Sunehri Masjid on Chandni Chowk is Delhi's largest market dealing in wedding accessories. This is the Kinari Bazaar. Even if you don’t have any plans for marketing, just go for window shopping. You will love it! Then halt at Fatehpuri Mosque or Fatehpuri Masjid as it is popularly called in Delhi. It is on the opposite end of Red Fort across the Chandni Chowk. Fatehpuri Begum, one of Shah Jahan's wives, built Fatehpuri Masjid in 1650. The majestic structure is primarily built of red sandstone, typical of all the buildings of that era. This is one of the oldest surviving mosques in India that has only one dome. The later Mughal architecture encouraged multi-domed masjid. The masjid has three gates. Khari Baoli is in the north end gate and Katra Baryan is the south gate. Id-ul-Fitr and Id-ul-Zuha is celebrated in a grand way in the Fatehpuri Masjid. If you want and have time you can stop at St. James' Church, also known as Skinner's Church. Built in 1836 by Colonel James Skinner, is one of the oldest churches in Delhi. The dome of the St. James Church bears a close resemblance to the dome of the Florence Cathedral in Venice in Italy. You are sure to get a lot of peace and solace in the quiet and serene surroundings of this church. Located amidst beautiful gardens, the St. James Church is not just an architectural marvel of historical relevance but it is an experience of the simple, the pure and the ethereal. Then stop at Khari Baoli. Khari Baoli is the Asia's largest wholesale spice market. It can be reached by taking the Khari Baoli road (towards western direction) after crossing the Fatehpuri Masjid on the western end of the main Chandni Chowk Road. It is very popular among tourist as they find it very interesting and unique. Keep going until you reach Dariba Kalan, the oldest and main market for jewelry. Don’t forget to bargain if you plan to buy. Don't worry. Go away, they will call you back and drop the price. Go south down Dariba Kalan to reach Jama Masjid, India's largest and best known mosque. Built between 1644 and 1658, Jama Masjid is one of the last architectural works of the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan. I visited Old Delhi on December28, 2009. As it was Eid on that day, I was lucky to see the celebration in front of Jama Majid. Then you can head west down Chawri Bazaar for brass and copper icons and other souvenirs. Then up Nai Sarak, the linking road between main Chandni Chowk road and Chawri Bazar. It is Delhi's largest wholesale and retail market of school and college textbooks. Then head south to Churiwali Galli, the "lane of bangle-sellers," and make a final stop at Karim's to sample the authentic Mughlai cooking that has kept patrons coming back for over 100 years.
Just opposite Jama Majid , in the narrow lanes you will find many food vendors. It is unhygienic but I am sure you won't find such finest taste anywhere in the world. Just try it out!

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